| submitted by /u/budchase666
Hi, need advice
Call a locksmith.
Explain to locksmith.
Pay locksmith to do locksmith things.
It’s just a regular door, not a sliding door
This locksmith recommends just a regular lock not a sliding door lock.
Any foolproof way to prevent this from happening?
Remove the door.
Keep a hungry bear on the balcony. I bet the tenants won’t ever use it.
Evict your tenants.
Burn the building down.
Create an elaborate plot in which you gradually feed high quality intelligence to the security services about a foreign government using a nearby building to train terrorists. Ensure that it’s a building that can only be seen from your balcony. The security services will commandere use of your apartment for surveillance and your tenants will no longer get locked on the balcony. The feds might though, so best go with the bear.
I’m looking to replace my front entry door deadbolt lock. I’m trying to decide between the Schlage B60N and the Schlage B560P. The B60N is marketed as a “Grade 1” and the B560 is a commercial Grade 2. I went to a local locksmith shop and they showed me a Medeco deadbolt which was about $230. I asked about the B560P and they only had the B360 series in stock. Would the B560 be a better and more secure deadbolt (bump and pick resistant) than the B60N lock? thanks!
I have a 2013 Subaru Impreza I bought used with a rebuilt title, but it did not have any engine damage. I lost my only key and had no luck with a locksmith because apparently they have encrypted coding in their keys beyond certain years or something. I was in a remote area so with limited options outside of that one locksmith, I had to tow it to a Subaru dealership to have the key replaced.
The folks at the dealership said the year of the vehicle was kind of on the border of this coding change and kept going back and forth on whether they could get a key made immediately or if they’d have to remove parts of the ignition system of my car and send them in to be cleared and recoded with the new key. They ended up doing the latter.
Apparently when the dealership got the parts back a note was included saying that since it has a rebuilt title there’s additional parts and work involved. That added an extra thousand dollars onto the bill. Reminder, as far as I know (and I’m pretty sure I can find documentation on it) the rebuilt title was due to a fender bender type situation with no parts of the engine damaged/replaced.
I don’t know enough about cars and that’s probably obvious to the Subaru people so my alarm bells are going off like crazy that they’re trying to pull one over on me. My brother told me he was able to replace a key for a 2016 Subaru Legacy (also a rebuilt title) by procuring a key from eBay or something and having a locksmith code it. Why would my car be any different? I don’t trust what they’re telling me at all and it kinda feels like they’re holding my car for ransom at this point.
I’m planning on talking to other dealerships and maybe even other locksmiths in the morning for additional opinions and ideas that I might be able to talk them down with. Or maybe I should just try to trade it in? Any advice on what else I need to say or find out to get out of this relatively unscathed? It’s been an unbelievable ordeal already.
6 pin Sargent RB keyway using ilco kik cylinders master key system. Using Lab SGT115 pin kit. The way the keys work are random after pinning cylinder. Sometimes just one change key sometimes both change keys sometimes ggmk only or ggmk and one change key work. Code cut sargent factory RB keyways on hpc machine more than once doesn’t make a difference. Has anyone had this issue?
I have a fairly large tool chest at my community garden that has an Abus lock with a brass body on it. Mysteriously, within the past two weeks, both keys for it have gone missing. I can’t find them anywhere. It’s autumn and I need my tools to prepare the garden for winter. So my question is this: Will I be able to use bolt cutters to cut the lock off or will this require some greater heroics? It’s just a fairly simple but very sturdy lock like this one: https://www.motonet.fi/fi/tuote/8601320/Abus-riippulukko-65IB40
Many thanks for any and all advice you can give, including how to go about this. I haven’t had occasion to cut many locks in my life (none, in fact) so any advice on how to finesse this with the least brute force, as I’m a middle-aged woman here; will be greatly appreciated.
I apologize in advance for the length of this post!
Hi. I live in NYC and the front door to my apt. is an old (30+ years) steel one, 1.75″ actual thickness.
A few years ago I installed an electronic Schlage lock, which I like fine.
But I really made a mess of the door (83″ x 35″).
See attached trio of photos.
The previous mechanical lockset was large and heavy and I discarded it.
Anyway, where I am now is:
A door that works, but… to lock the door when leaving, I have to pull on that kludged up cable so as to hold the door against the door frame till the trigger the Schlage.
Exiting or entering the apt. from the inside, I have to twist the knob on the Schlage while pushing or pulling the door from the frame.
I threw in that wood piece that holds the cable to prevent neighbors from looking into my apt.
Yes, you are welcome to laugh…
I vaguely recall that the large door thickness was an issue for some reason when I attempted to add a regular doorknob so the door will lock when simply pulled shut.
It’s been 2 or 3 years and the girlfriend is tired of this temporary kludge. Particularly the inability to exit the apt. using one hand (when she is carrying things).
It seems to me I have two possibilities (keeping in mind that I’ll be moving out of NYC soon, and will sell the apt. — it must look good for sale):
Get a new door and start from scratch. I can do this, but it’s expensive, and the outside of the door is a green color that no one on the Coop board remembers. The board will give me cr*p if I don’t manage to paint it a matching color. Neighbors seem to have installed all sorts of locks on existing doors. No one has replaced their door.
Keep the door, have a locksmith fix up this disaster, but I’ve looked around for featureless plates that might cover all these holes on the outside, and I haven’t found anything large enough. I can’t sell the apt. if this looks too crappy.
p.s. I generally do my own repairs — electrical, sheetrock, etc. This door project was not my finest hour. If you wish to make some jokes at my expense, I’m up for it.
I am looking to replace two locks on two doors. They are both slightly different in installation. One has a plate on it and the other one does not.
Can I just buy two of the same B60N lock and install them after I have a key made that will work for both?
My sister just moved into a new house and the garden gate has a yale lock on it but she doesn’t have a key.
We think the previous tenants have been snooping as the fence is high and secure but they still have a key to the gate and the shed had been opened.
I wanted to know if we squirted superglue into the key slot if the yale lock would still lock and turn from the inside?
A new fence and gate will be fitted but not for another month so in the mean time I was looking for an easy solution to stop then having access to the lock just in case it was them who went in the shed.
Would this work or cease the lock up?