Help identify this key way. having issues finding this key way. i need to make another copy of this key but can’t find blanks. not sure how to post more pictures. can dm for more pics. : Locksmith

My thoughts, too. What do you wanna bet it’s a restricted DND key. My entire career was filled with people wanting restricted keys, one of them was my Director at the county I worked for, & he had a key to his homeowner association’s pool, of course he wanted me to make it on the sly… I told him no & my manager went berserk. “You can’t tell him no!” Wanna bet? Of course, I was retiring in 3 weeks, so I didn’t care.

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Where’s a good place to get blanks to practice with? : Locksmith

Note: I am not a locksmith and don’t even pretend to be one, but I’m fascinated by the mechanical aspects of lock mechanisms. I’ve learned how to pick some simple locks reliably, and now I want to learn how to make keys.

Many moons ago I had a friend who was a retired locksmith, he made a spare key for my car for me by eyeballing my old key and using a hand clipper to make the new key, that blew my mind pretty thoroughly. I’ve looked for one of those key clippers, but they’re rare and expensive, or at least more than I can afford, so I got a Lishi clipper to play with. The main elements of making a good key seem to be making sure that the distance from the shoulder to each notch is accurate, and the depth of each notch is appropriate for the pin at that location. The Lishi has markings for depth but not location, so I want to practice using it to make keys to see if I can develop that as a usable skill.

That brings me to my question here, namely, where’s a good place to get blanks in bulk to practice with? I see that I can get 50 Kwikset blanks for less than $20 shipped off of the ‘bay, is that about as good as it gets? Would it make sense to approach my local locksmiths to get cheap blanks? Ideally they’d be Kwikset just so that I can test my practice keys in an actual lock, and I have plenty of Kwikset lock cylinders laying around to use for that purpose.

I have made a key before, for my motorcycle. I picked the helmet lock and disassembled it, measured the wafers and wafer spacing, then hand-filed a key that worked moderately well. It took me all day to file that key, and it was complicated by the fact that Kawasaki uses both tip and shoulder stopping because the gas lid only uses the end 5 notches on the key.

I’d appreciate any advice!

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Debating on hiring out or buying a lishi, key pliers and blanks for a motorcycle key : Locksmith

We’re not here to teach a non locksmith (or a practicing locksmith for that matter) how to make lost keys for a motorcycle, I’m sure you understand. If you’re looking at getting the service done as cheap as possible remove the ignition and leave it at a lockshop for a couple days.

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Corbin key blanks : Locksmith

I have a weird obsession with buying and picking Corbin/Russwin mortise locks, i usually get them with no keys and then make keys for them. Recently though i have been running into an issue whereby copying my ILCO code cut key(cut on a framon) A1001D1 to any other blank (on a hardware store KD-50c), either CO88 CO108 or CO89, or the original nickel brass keys i always have an issue it seems with spacing, i seem to need to pull the key out ever so slightly to get it to turn with no issue. I have calibrated the damn KD-50C for depth and spacing a million times, SC4 schlages work fine, obs KW and SC1 are smooth, but anything corbin just acts up, I have tested on several different cylinders, and all the mortises are using original system 70 pins, with original tops pins and no master pins (i took them out). Is there something im doing wrong? is the wheel? this is really bugging me.

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