| submitted by /u/lockznkeyz
The ignition is like any other car part. You can probably find the right service manuals and tools to do it, but I remember the first time I replaced head gaskets it was a bloodbath.
Your best bet is to just find a local locksmith that does auto work and take it in to their shop.
I have a customer who brought in an ignition lock/switch for an early model Kawasaki Bute Force 750. He wasn’t sure on the year, but he said it was one of the first models available, so maybe 08/09.
The switch only has two things written on it. A logo (I think) that looks like an AD where the right leg of the A forms the left part of the D and a code (maybe) which is 4421.
I have tried looking that code up in Instacode Live, Lockcodes, and CodeSource, but none of those have it. Does anyone see this code in any of their programs? I’m just trying to find something more complete. Generally between the three I can find most codes I come across.
So I tried impressioning the lock. It has 5 wafers. I first used a X260. Eventually I stopped getting marks but it didn’t turn. I looked up the blank on the Lockcodes cross-reference and saw the X260 was for 6 wafer locks. I switched to the X117/YH48 (5 wafer blank) and copied the key I made from the X260 but that didn’t work. I tried impressioning with the shorter key and still wouldn’t turn.
I also tried to pull the cylinder out. But I can’t get the lock to pick. I think it’s all plastic so that is messing with the wafers.
Anyways, what do you guys recommend? I was thinking about calling a Kawasaki dealer to see if they had a key code for it or maybe just getting a new ignition lock and switch entirely.
Local Mercedes-Benz dealership brought in this lock and the key for it. You have to wiggle the key to get it to turn. The job ticket says that it is a 1980 but I’m fairly certain that is wrong. The ticket said “recode key” but we don’t do sidewinder keys by code here for some reason… I did make a copy of the key (Ilco S50HF-P) but something is wrong with our Silca Matrix SX, but that is another story…
I thought I could disassemble the lock and inspect the wafers, but I can’t get it apart. I think if I remove this pin, it holds the face cap on, and then I can slide the core out the back of the lock. Has anyone done this old ignition before or does anyone have any suggestions?
Attached are a couple of pictures of the lock.
A good experienced locksmith can help you with this. Finding that person will be your biggest problem. Someone older than 40 who’s been a locksmith all their life is who your looking for. Someone who, when you ask if they cut Ace keys, doesn’t hesitate to say yes. Some suggestions I have would be to dremel the key out. By cutting it almost flush with the lock and then dissecting it until you can remove it. An tubular pick will then allow you to reset your lock. No pick, then you will then need a new key that’s modified by cutting away the indexing tab so that you can return the lock to the resting position. The modified key will need to be discarded after you’ve reset your lock. Easy peasy.
So i came out to generate a key to a 00 chevy s10.
Picked the ignition over and got the keycode. Made the key and now the tail end of the ignition is not aligning correctly to the switch inside the column.
I have tried using a tool to turn the switch back to ACC but it is not in the position it should be for the ignition to slide in and will not line up right in any position.
The tail end requires the switch to be vertical [ ] with the retainer on top. But the switch inside is horizontal and will not remain in a vertical position.
I know GM in some cases will not allow the ignition to be turned off for removal of the key if the battery is dead but this is not the issue.
Any advice or possible shared experiences with the same issue would be fantastic.
what is truly amazing is GM used very similar ignition switches up thru 1990 on P30 vans.
the flats for the D shaped hole are in different spots on the later versions. but there is enough room to file a new flat to keep the alignment. the connector pigtails have a slightly different shape but the terminals can be moved easily from the early connector body to the new connector body without having to recrimp them.
working in a cadillac restoration shop in the 80s.. the bosses had a big box of GM keys . they would get a car in and find keys that fit and leave the keys with that car.. cutting down on the box of keys.. i finally got them to let me figure out the depths and cut new keys by depth and put the originals back in the box..
somebody threw away my list of 102 try out keys for GM locks decades ago. long before i worked at the caddy shop.. at one time in the late 80s, we had 7, 59 Eldorado Biarritz convertables in the shop for restoration .. just thought i would share..
we have the key it just wont turn. If i knew how it worked on the inside i could figure this out but just guessing. All i know it needs to be in ACC position, but it wont turn and there is a button on the back to release it. I was thinking to drill out the center or pound a screwdriver in there and turn it with a vise grip. Thoughts?