Fucking Entitled Forum Beggars : Locksmith


What the fuck is going on with these asshole pricks trying to always ask us for help? Given the sheer amount of throwaway accounts begging for help on the forums, I would say they are in fact the enemy of our brethren.

These fucks are two things:

  1. Shithead end users trying to cut us out of the process but are so fucking inept, they believe that they can somehow make an August Lock work on a mortise by forcing it onto the spindle.

  2. Shithead wannabe locksmiths/contractors, that have no respect for what we do or know. They just want to steal our experience and ideas so that they can in their minds ‘get ahead of us’ and then somehow make more money when they clearly have no idea how to do anything. There are so many so called locksmiths that ask what key machine to buy yet don’t even know what a Blitz machine is. Then when you seriously ask what the fuck they are doing because they are so fucking behind and they get all defensive, they have the balls to somehow believe in their delusion that they are successful and we don’t know what we are talking about when they were the ones that asked for help first.

It is fucking sad to say but, the shithead wannabe locksmiths are in fact as big of an enemy to us as the shithead end users and scammers polluting our trade. I say fuck them all. Even if they had the right tools, they will never have the experience to do the shit properly even if we directly told them what to do step for step because this knowledge can only be gained from firsthand experience and a large component has to do with, trying something, fucking up and fixing it.

Just earlier today, there was this idiot online asking about a fucking Adams Rite 8430. First and foremost the AR 8430 is a complete piece of shit, it is like they took the shittiest deadlatch and made it into an even shittier exit device. The guy wanted to install an electric strike on a storefront to electrify the shit which makes absolutely no sense as anyone with any fucking brain would just buy a motorized version of the bar to avoid the high amp requirements. Still, jokes on them because if they already bought the shit, it is literally the ONLY AR exit device that does not have an aftermarket electrification kit because of the shitty way it is built. Frankly, I don’t know what is worse, this exit device or a fucking AR Steelhawk. This guy wanted to install an electric strike meant for a deadlatch with no preload ability and force it to work on a latch that has constant problems latching due to the nature of being a storefront. Literally an AR8800 would solve all their problems and not be as susceptible to being popped open with a screwdriver.

Or how about the just getting started automotive throwaway usernames trying to get into automotive work when they don’t even know how to use a Blitz machine or know anything about locksmithing besides removing and installing shitty residential tubular locks? Do these people really think that what we do is so easy and that we are so stupid that they can just come here and learn everything online and then become rich?



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Is there a better way? : Locksmith


I don’t think so. You could try using a Dust Box for ANSI strike and see if that looks better for you. It will require more cutting, but will seal the hole in the strike with said box.

The mortising is just pure detail work. I am sure that you can rig a router with a very shallow cut to do it prettier, but the vast majority of my customers want it done quick and for the strike to be effective.

Working on some commercial palace or luxury residence would be a totally different story.



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Need some help! : Locksmith


My boss and I have run into a 2015 subaru cross trek, we ordered the keys and they turn in the ignition fine.

We have several tools including an auto pro pad and a code cannibal and we are unable to get these keys to program. It goes through the programming procedure and then does no take the programming of the two keys

We have two fobbed keys the SUB-944 which is what was recommended by our supplier but there was also the SUB-938 which they said was also an option. Being unaware of how to tell the two apart without having the actual key here we ordered the SUB-944.

My question to you fine folks is there a way to get this key to work? Has anyone else been through difficulties programming subaru crosstrek’s? Anyone got any advice on how to tell which key I need to order before ordering them so I can eliminate this problem in the future. I’m pretty new to the locksmith scene so any information would be stellar. Thanks everyone



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Help identify this key way. having issues finding this key way. i need to make another copy of this key but can’t find blanks. not sure how to post more pictures. can dm for more pics. : Locksmith


My thoughts, too. What do you wanna bet it’s a restricted DND key. My entire career was filled with people wanting restricted keys, one of them was my Director at the county I worked for, & he had a key to his homeowner association’s pool, of course he wanted me to make it on the sly… I told him no & my manager went berserk. “You can’t tell him no!” Wanna bet? Of course, I was retiring in 3 weeks, so I didn’t care.



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Looking for advice on padlocks : Locksmith


A little bit of a change of pace question for y’all. (I did message the mods and get permission to post this.) Tl;dr: I need padlocks that can tolerate having their combinations reset a LOT.

I work in a library, and in trying to get items to patrons in a socially distant manner, we put a bunch of lockers just outside the library (think like metal gym/school lockers). We bought resettable Masterlock padlocks to lock them, and set the combination to the last 4 digits of the patron’s library card number, so when they make a reservation they don’t need our help to open the locker.

The problem is that the locks don’t seem to tolerate having their combinations reset multiple times per week. We have 12 lockers, which we reduced to 9, because we’re having a failure rate of like 1-3 locks per week and just don’t have spares. Either the reset tool will no longer turn in its slot, or the lock will stop “accepting” new combinations (you give it a combination, but then when you go to unlock it it doesn’t recognize the new combination….but it doesn’t recognize the old combination either). We’ve been doing this since October and have bought…24 locks? At least? Which is a lot for our budget.

The locks we bought are Masterlocks #176 with the supervisor key override. We also have some 175’s, which seem to hold up better, but if a combination gets lost or set incorrectly we have no way to get into those locks short of cutting them off. Basically, I’m looking for ideas of what’s going wrong (if it’s something a non-expert like me could potentially fix), or alternate recommendations of locks, or ideas for some entire other system. We don’t have the budget for something that would require bluetooth/electronics/an app. I have been told that pneumatic tubes, like they have at bank driveups, are impractical.

Thank you, lock experts!



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Are Hinge Dr.’s worth it? : Locksmith


What’s your opinion on this situation…?

Large triple glazed balcony aluminium framed door, weighing around 100kg (220 lbs). Replacing the hinges is a £1,200 + job due to the size and manpower requirements and the fact that the hinges cost a fortune. I’ve done a few already in a building of 300. Frankly, they’re a nightmare. The H&S paperwork, arranging labourers, the job itself – it all sucks. Money’s good but it sucks.

I’ve been tempted to order a hinge Dr from the USA and give the building manager the option of the cheap band aid fix. Thoughts? Both in terms of whether or not it stands a chance of even working on a door like that and whether or not it is a good business decision.

Edit: Like this but wider, taller and heavier.



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Replacing this unique (to me) entry door mortise setup : Locksmith


We got this modern style stainless steel front door when we remodeled our house a few years ago.

The main lock/handle is a mortise. We didn’t realize when we bought it that it’d be imported from Europe, so it might be a “European mortise” if that’s a thing.

The cylinder is definitely Euro style.

Now here’s the kicker: The main lock not only operates a pretty massive deadbolt in the middle of the door, but also a second one near the bottom of the door.

This picture was on the door reseller’s website, and accurately describes how our door works.

We want to replace the main lockset for multiple reasons (functionality, appearance) but don’t know what we’re in for because of the possibly non-standard (for the US) nature of the mortise and because of this internally connected second deadbolt.

Sadly the reseller is unresponsive to questions.

Has anyone seen one like this before? Have any advice?

Thanks!



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[Question] Possible to replace this Medeco cylinder easily? : Locksmith


Hello,

Sorry if this is against the rules, I don’t think it is?

I have a 1980s safe with a secondary inner compartment inside. It used to have a time delay lock, but it was cut and has not been working for a while. The secondary door has this Medeco lock. I do not have the key, but luckily the door was left open. Am I able to just replace the cylinder on this with one of the many Medeco cylinder and key sets on ebay? Or do I need to get the entire thing?

http://imgur.com/a/YsyjRCm



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