Lost the fucking only remote to my work van.
Ordered 2 Strattec remotes coming from Anixter on Monday. When I go to the fucking buttons on the dash, I scroll through to try find the new remote programming screen but it gets there and it just is black, then when I hit scroll again it goes to the mileage. Does this mean I am fucked and have to get suckered by an auto guy who can do it through the OBD port?
That’s a print out showing the dealership tried to run the vehicles VIN in order to retrieve the key code and PIN code. In this case, for whatever reason, Nissan says they don’t have that information for your vehicle. It happens with Nissan, and it happens way too much.
UK I run zedfull autel 508, fvdi, xtool, obd helper, tango, orange5 and of course your cutting machine a vast amount of Lishi picks, blades, remotes etc and everything is changing so more eeprom work is occurring.
All in all if you think you can do it then go for it it but be prepared for a rough year or so of business. You will also be competing with people who have done it longer and got experience. There are more factors also do you have a mortgage and how will it be paid etc also you need to research your area to see whom is working it etc
I moved into a new house and decided to change the cylinders, I managed to lose this plate on one of the doors. The door still locks, but it’s a bit of a trick to it and I don’t think it’s as secure. I bought new handles thinking I might get a new plate with this, but no. It’s a uPVC door with euro cylinders in the UK if that makes any difference. Thanks!
I made a post about this vehicle (17 Honda Civic w/ prox) just the other day regarding me using the wrong tracer on my cutting machine, but I had another issue that I thought another locksmith could shed some light on.
I thought Honda key codes were always the last 4 in the series of characters. On this vehicle, the code was the first four. I realized this when I went back the following day to finish the key that I couldn’t cut due to using the wrong tracer on my mini. I burned a few emergency blanks before I realized it. The last four characters made a valid code for the vehicle. The code was only in one spot on the entire vehicle. Anyone else ever see this?
Got called to unlock a Mustang on a trailer, where the owner said he’d left the key in the ignition when he drove it onto the trailer. I didn’t bother looking, just picked the door and opened it up, at which point the alarm went off. Reached in to turn the key, and it wasn’t there. Guy looks shocked, reaches into his pocket, and pulls out the key!
🙂 The information we really need is the shape of the keyway which means a picture straight on of the lock so we can see the shape better. With this angle where I can only see one side of the keyway and it’s clear except that single thin bar I’m going to say the standard CH 500 series might work so CH 513 is the key you can order and try if you want. That being said, I’ve only seen this style lock on an antique desk by Stow Davis and that was a proprietary blank, luckily I was still able to order the actual key.
To me that looks like a label that corresponds with some sort of architectural plan or drawing. It’s possible that several things in that building are keyed alike and the numbers mean something to that affect, but you’d need to have more information in order to go to a locksmith.