LAB Pin Organization

Hello everyone:

How do you organize your pin stock? Do you mix your. 003 and. 005 pins? Do you mix the top and bottom pins? Trying to come up with a system that is easy to use. The way we had it was kind of a jumbled mess. I went ahead and separated all the pins by top, bottom, size, and kit. But now, I need to decide how to store them. It seems like someone in the past was just ordering the refill kits because it was easy. But now we have dumb shit like 50+ packs of. 065 top pins. Yes, I counted them all…

Anyways, what system do you all use to organize your pins? I was thinking about getting some of those gray stackable bins from Harbor Freight and just putting them on an unused shelf or counter, but I'm not entirely sure about it yet.

submitted by /u/notmyg

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Mul-T-Lock key stuck in lock (missing interactive pin)

As you’re UK based, I’m assuming it’s a key and key euro cylinder.

The key is probably restricted so you should give the locksmith that it’s registered with a call. They are the only ones that are going to be able to supply a new key. They may be able to remove it, repin the lock and supply new keys. If not, they can just fit a new cylinder keyed the same so you don’t have to distribute new keys to everyone that holds them.

The alternative is to just replace the cylinder with something else. If the stuck key is preventing you removing the old one, any half-decent locksmith will be able to do it in a way that doesn’t damage the lock mech or door.

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PIN READ on GM diesel vehicles : Locksmith

No issues here. Lishi like normal, or call the local GM parts department when I’m feeling lazy. Also AccuReader makes a tool that lets you remove the ignition without having to pick it open like the older styles. A must have tool.

Miss read the question. No I don’t have any problems, I use Smart Pro and it has yet to fail when pulling pin codes with the 2018+ GM software.

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What’s the reasoning behind a spring loaded hardened deadbolt pin? : Locksmith

If someone attempts to cut through the bolt, that hardened pin won’t cut with a standard blade. But there’s plenty of carbide blades that will, so the pin spins around & bounces back & forth to make cutting very difficult. If the thief is successful in cutting it, he deserves to get in. No, not really. The point is to slow him down so he’ll give up. The only times I’ve ever seen bolts cut is by maintenance personnel. Thieves will kick the door over & over, use a crowbar, but sawing the bolt… no. The weakest part of a deadbolt installation is the wood around the lock & the jamb where the strike is. If those aren’t beefed up with reinforcements, a couple stiff kicks could well burst the door open. Best would be a metal door & frame, next would be a reinforcing skin around the lock side of the door & a large strike plate with 3 to 4 inch screws.

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Can anyone help me identify the part number of this core? I don’t see anything like it in the Schlage Key Systems Catalog. Standard 6 pin core. Thanks for any help! : Locksmith

It looks like a regular 6-pin Schlage or aftermarket cylinder. The tailpiece with the hole in it and the other parts are part of the lock actuator. I’d guess it’s for some kind of padlock. The thin disk may be to prevent bypass through the keyway but that isn’t typically an issue with these cylinders as the tailpiece attachment prevents a probe from getting to the mechanism.

The core itself is nothing special. It’s the tailpiece and other hardware that is specific to that lock mechanism. Is it a Schlage brand lock or something else?

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accessing pin inside cylinder for door knob is capped off? : Locksmith

I recently bought a MiLocks DKK-02SN door lock for my interior garage door and was attempting to rekey this door so that it would work with my current house key. I made it as far as removing the lock cylinder from the door knob and removing the C clip but I don’t know how I am supposed to remove the core from the cylinder. Every youtube tutorial I could find always mentions pushing out the core with the removal tool pictured below in in upper right corner but I noticed there is a metal cap on the end of the cylinder itself that is preventing me from pushing out the core. Should I take a screw driver and brute force pop that cap off? I am not sure what the cap is for honestly but I also didn’t want to potentially break or damage something important based on a wild guess I made. This is my first time taking apart a door lock to rekey it and I was trying to save some money doing the rekey myself. I’ve noted down the pin combination my house key uses using a KW1 key gauge to set the pins correctly (my house key is a kwikset KW1 keyway which also fits this lock) so accessing the pins is hopefully last obstacle. 🙂

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cylinder and removed C clip

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is this metal cap supposed to come off?

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Lost a pin… : Locksmith

Hello everyone:

My apprenticeship is going well. A customer came in with an ignition switch with attached ignition lock for a 1964 Studebaker Lark. We got the lock picked and it was my job to make the key for it. We figured I could just use the code cutter and go for trial and error, reading the pins as I go from shallow cuts to deep cuts.

Well, I decided I needed to measure the pins for some reason. I got them laid out in a row and measured them. While I was putting them back in to the core, I dropped the last pin. Not a big deal, right? Well, it fell into the catch-all at the work bench I was working at. Good thing it isn’t lost. Unfortunately, there is about a million other pins in there.

I spent the last hour of the day using a pair of calipers and measuring the diameter of the pins in the catch-all. I didn’t find the pin by quitting time. I was thinking it would be easier to just replace the pin, problem is I don’t know which kit to use and I also don’t know what pin it was.

Does anyone know a compatible pin kit? Our shop is over 50 years old, so I’m sure we have something around with the right pins in it. But, the car is older than any of us in the shop. I’m sure I could call and ask the boss man but I really don’t want to bother him with something that I consider a big fuck up.

What would be the best thing to do to fix this situation? Should I just keep measuring the diameter of the pins until I find the right one? It’s very worn, so even if we do have the right pin kit, a new pin might be a bad idea since the other 4 pins are pretty worn. The customer didn’t come in to get his lock repinned, he just wanted a key. I am hesitant to replace the pin(s) with with new ones.

I guess I could make the customer 5 keys and ask him to try all of them in his doors to see which one actually unlocks the door, but I don’t really want to do that because it feels like I am passing on my fuck-up to the customer. What would you guys do in this situation? Also, does anyone know of a book that would have the specs for the lock in it? We have a small library spanning over 50 years so there might be a book in there somewhere with the info… If I could find that book, I could compare the length of the missing pin to the lock spec and hopefully choose the right one.

Attached is a picture of the pins, laid out from bow to tip (ignore the key, I just wanted a straight edge so I could compare the pin lengths). At least I have that, I guess. I went ahead and marked the other 4 pins on the end with a Sharpie so I will know which are which in case I drop any of the other pins.

Thank you all for the help.

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Replace 5 pin cylinder with 6 pin : Locksmith

My SO bought a bunch of Schlage keyed entry levers for my house which have 5 pin SC1 keys, similar to this. I’d like to key them alike to our deadbolts, which appear to be 6 pin SC4 keys (the key is visibly longer).

Is doing something like this possible? My guess is that the locksmith would have to change out the whole cylinder, would it even fit in the lever assembly?

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