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I am trying to replace a Kwikset deadbolt with no visible screws and haven't had any luck.
This link shows the exact lock:
I removed the set screw, as the link said to, but the locking knob still won't detach.
Does anyone have any experience with any of this? Is it possible that the set screw broke off inside? or are there more screws that i need to remove first that i'm missing?
Thanks
submitted by /u/beachhouse404
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Hello, I have just came back to school after a weekend, I live in boarding, and in my own room I have my closet that I lick with my padlock, but stupidly I left my keys at home, and I have important stuff inside, the padlock has a little hole but I tried paperclips or staples but nothing. And it stresses me as I have other issues is there anything i can do to somehow open it? Am I picking the little hole wrong?
submitted by /u/Fennexx101r
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I have searched every way I know to and have not seen anything like this problem or a solution to it. If I am doing something wrong I don’t know what it is. I have a total of 4 fobs. 2 old and 2 new. Per the instructions, I enter the van, shut the door, press the lock button, insert key in switch at least 6 times until the emergency flashers blink twice, turn the key to ACC position, press the lock button on the remote. To program each additional remote I press the unlock then the lock button on the door then the lock button on the remote, lights flash two times. When completed turn key off, unlock door, exit vehicle…. when I press the lock button the horn blows off and on until I get in the van, start engine, and turn off the engine then remove the key. What is going on? Why is the van responding this way to the procedure? Two of the remotes worked before the batteries died in them.
Hi folks!
So a professionally installed Tasman MK3 lockset in the front metal door was just opened by a 5foot5 rather small lady, who was meaning to walk back into next door.
First of all i thought my partner left the door unlocked, but then i was told the person was making a pile of noise, and then got in. So then i thought perhaps a bump set, but no… was legit looking to go back into next door (confirmed with neighbours when it wasnt 6:30am), and she had her own car keys in hand.
So i got my partner to finger lock the screen door, and then i managed to open the door from the outside too!
Ive pulled out the lock, and checked the spindle and spindle driver… theres no damage or wear.
.. what the hell is going on? How can i fix this?
Note: There is a few millimeters travel between the spindle n driver, and im not a locksmith, but just a person with some chippy training.
Hi All,
I was gutting this American 700 and accidentally turned the core back in line with the driver pins after one of the keypins came out. Now its jammed. Is there a way to remove it? Thanks
submitted by /u/jdukis
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I’ve been a locksmith for almost 4 years now. Its saved my life. Everything Around me got better after I became a locksmith. With that Said the community has been 50/50 with me.
Most locksmith are cool but alot aren’t. Alot of locksmith are so greedy with the knowledge they hold it’s just sad. 10k locksmith subscribed on reddit.
I work in florida. There are probably 10k locksmith scammers in Florida alone.
TLDR: We need to create a better community of young locksmiths.
*if your a cool locksmith ignore this. I’m just venting. I never thought I’d be a locksmith. Mostly because it was never presented to me as an option. Its upsetting that 100k+ random lockpickere have no idea what it’s really like to be a locksmith.
If you’ve never done it in your life, you’re better off just buying replacements with keys. As for instructions on how to file a key, I’m personally not too keen on revealing that information to non-locksmiths. I’ll let someone else handle that should they choose to.
I had a really annoying problem with a lock connected by a dry contact to fingerprint scanner. The person who installed it 5 years ago did a horrible job and after all that time the wire shorted together to I had to replace the botched wiring job after I replaced all the wiring I find I’m getting some interference from somewhere that’s causing the lock to open close randomly. After 3 hours of bashing my head agaisnt the wall I figured out the the 12v transformer for the fingerprint scanner wasn’t working right…it was causing the fingerprint scanner to send pulses every couple of seconds to the lock to open.
Hello everyone…
So we have a few different machines in our shop. One of them is the HPC Blitz 1200CMB. Pretty cool machine, I’m sure you are all familiar with it.
One of the locksmiths I work with was teaching me how to impression locks. Our first step was to use the Blitz and shave just the tiniest amount off the top of the key. You know the method, yeah? Well, for some reason, every time we went to shave some off, the key would come out with a noticeable slope on it instead of being straight and level.
We couldn’t understand why it was happening, so just continued to work on impressioning the key/lock. Today I was attempting to do this on my own, and no matter what key blank I tried, same exact thing happened.
I thought maybe the machine was out of alignment, so I grabbed a couple of SC4 blanks and used the CodeMax to cut the key with the biting 123456. I then used the appropriate Blitz card and cut a key 123456. I compared the keys and they were pretty much identical. Scratching my head, I cleaned the jaw of the Blitz and tried shaving a key again. Same exact thing happened.
I loaded another key. This time, I paid careful attention to what was happening. I’m not sure if this is by design or if there is something wrong with our machine, but when I set the depth crank to just barely touch the corner near the tip of the key and then used the lateral crank to move the key from tip to shoulder, the middle bar of the pivot arm rubs across the crank bearing for the depth crank and causes it to rotate.
I know when we normally cut the key we start at the shoulder. Do I need to do this when shaving the key for impressioning as well? It seemed that no matter which way I turned the lateral crank, the depth crank would always get turned, so I’m not sure it matters.
Any ideas on how to fix this? Does the bearing need cleaned/lubed or replaced maybe? Does the slope even matter? I sprayed a small amount of Tri-Flow on the bar where it touches the bearing and it made it feel smoother to move, but it didnt stop the depth crank from turning on its own.
Attached is a picture of three keys. The first key is just a regular KW1 blank. The second key is a KW1 that I attempted to shave. The third key is just a random cut KW1 that was duplicated on a Rytan.
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